Article by Ros Jason
Photography by Mark Moray, Wicked Rock Photography
WOMADelaide 2019 wowed capacity audiences over a mild LABOUR DAY WEEKEND offering a spectacularly broad range of entertainment choices. Closing night sizzled with the ORIGINAL GYPSIES of Gypsy Kings fame oozing machismo in a fiery set of hip swaying rumba and flamenco. The twelve piece ensemble featuring eight brilliant guitarists hit the high notes with their distinctive gravelly voices, encouraging their rapt audience to sing along. Clearly having a blast during this phenomenal festival gig the band went offstage, the lights came down, voiceover announcing the end of festival housekeeping commenced…and the ORIGINAL GYPSIES burst onstage for an encore, the crowd erupting ecstatically.
Festival highlights included the JOHN BUTLER TRIO, frenetic NEW ZEALAND funsters FAT FREDDY’S DROP and the dazzling ANGELIQUE KIDJO presenting a set revisiting TALKING HEADS album ‘Remain in Light’. This multi-talented artist held the stage under siege during a slick stylish set as did Mali’s FATOUMATA DIAWARA’S dazzling funk and blues accompanied by her exceptional vocals and electric guitar.
WOMADelaide truly is the people’s festival with something for everyone such as the cultural and historical significance of the CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN ABORIGINAL WOMEN’S CHOIR, singing hymns in native languages originally taught by German missionaries over a century ago. I attended their workshop(one of several available featuring various artists) during which we learnt songs, then discussed enabling their history and music to become accessible to the education system and community choirs.
Lying on the grass under an ancient Moreton Bay fig tree I found myself lost in the mesmerizing talent of ALINA BZHEZHINSKA QUARTET from Poland, her exquisite jazz harp a new experience. I have loved the harp since l was little, watching black and white Marx Brothers movies with my darling parents. Enjoying the crazy antics of these hilarious brothers, I would always eagerly await the moment when HARPO MARX would sit down at his beloved instrument and in a moment, shed the comedic antics and become the skilled musician, commitment etched on his face. I would sit transfixed, the sheer beauty of the music transporting my child’s imagination to far away places. In the moment that I hear the delicate whispers of the harp, I am once again taken back to those tender memories. BZHEZHINSKA performed amongst others, pieces by John Coltrane and concluded her set with a haunting piece by Alice Coltrane. The 21 stringed African harp the KORA was featured by GAMBIA’S SONA JOBARTEH, the first female West African virtuoso. This instrument is held facing the musician, strapped to the hips and played with both thumbs, fascinating to watch and the most liltingly delicate sound, matched by her vocals and guitar. I managed to catch this artist at the TASTE THE WORLD tent where visiting performers prepare and serve their favourite dishes from home whilst sharing personal anecdotes. JOBARTEH came to her profession as a teenager realizing that she was drawn to the kora, and began training; extremely rare for a girl in Gambia. She also spoke of her pride in having created a school for cultural education and music in her home country.
I joined a delightful workshop with Taiwan’s TAIWU ANCIENT BALLADS TROUPE during which we were taught a dance, ‘when we hold hands like this, to us it means that we are family..’ and an accompanying song. The troupe’s onstage performance in intricately decorated costumes and elaborate headpieces was likewise inclusive and charming, inviting audience participation.
COMPAGNIE BiLBobaSSo from France presented the fiery dramatic performance piece AMOR during which a couple dealt with passionate emotions with fire throwing adding drama and lighting up the night sky. We left with their instructions not to try this at home… Nearby the French installation EPHEMERAL CITY featured an architectural design of cardboard boxes held together with tape, erected by visitors during workshops then dismantled on the last day. Reaching three stories high this double spiral staircase was quite incredible to see, an unusual and off beam festival experience. Hats off to the WOMADelaide organizers for continually sourcing worldwide the most innovative and unique acts.
FOOD is always a highlight with noticeably more vegetarian and vegan options whilst middle eastern stalls with felafel, sabich, hummus and salads were a hit. My FESTIVAL FAVES were scrumptious Afghani chicken and eggplant dishes with fragrant rice, and well-loved Govinda vegetarian curry and kofta. Have to mention the utterly melt in your mouth LOUKOMADES, Greek donuts served with various toppings.
The GLOBAL VILLAGE was just stunning with exquisite jewellery popping up in several stalls. Designer clothing, natural skincare, shoes, pottery and more with WOMADE tent featuring talented local designers and makers. I wandered into the KID-ZONE; so much fun and the most wonderfully cosy atmosphere created by families hanging out in the sandpit and bopping together at the silent disco. And the best frozen fruit icy poles ever.
It’s always a challenge to decide which act to see, but it’s all amazing and surprises abound. South African Acapella group ISANGO captivated with their exceptional harmonies and cheeky dance moves, with a special nod to MIRIAM MAKEBA. Brazilian senior citizen DONA ONETE remained seated yet kept everyone dancing throughout her joyously energetic set featuring Carimbo and Samba as did UKELE DEATH SQUAD’S raucous repertoire of rap, folk and Mexican numbers. YOHAI COHEN QUINTET had the crowd mesmerized by their glorious fusion of Moroccan, Hebrew and Arabic music featuring OUD and percussion. I was lucky to see them again the following week at the IN ONE VOICE festival celebrating the diversity of Jewish life in MELBOURNE.
The most ebullient WOMADelaide applause was for the dynamic MOJO JUJU as she concluded her powerful set with a tribute to the original owners of the land, elders past and present. This included a surprise collaboration with members of indigenous modern dance troupe the super talented DJUKI MALA. ARTONIK’S THE COLOUR OF TIME provided a daily procession of theatrical drama, music and dance culminating in a delirious explosion of colour and energy as paint powder was joyously hurled skyward creating rainbow coloured Womadelaideans of all ages.
Having heard so much about THE MAES I was rapt to catch their gig. These two sisters harmonize as if tuned as one instrument, accompanying themselves with skilful guitar, violin and mandolin. Their exquisite mellifluous voices flow effortlessly, enhanced by captivating lyrics. An absolute 2019 highlight. Young Indian born HARTS rocked the Novatech stage with his screaming blues guitar, visions of JIMI HENDRIX closing his electrifying set. In stark contrast, audiences fell quiet during a seated performance of YO, CARMEN by Spanish dancer and choreographer MARIA PAGES COMPANIA. This scintillating revisiting of Bizet’s famous opera incorporated poetry, flamenco and theatrical interpretation of the essence of woman. A beautiful scene involved two dancers dressing in front of mirrors, completing the outfit with jewellery, headpiece, robe…and then stripping each layer back step by step, whilst performing a slow muted flamenco.
Many organizations set up stalls at WOMADelaide to raise awareness and funds for their causes. I visited TIMPIR, a local group working to provide better access to education and healthcare for the people of SOUTH SUDAN who are rebuilding their nation after a devastating civil war. Projects include building schools, digging water boreholes and supplying hand pedalled tricycles for people with mobility disorders.
Encapsulating the vibe of this festival is elusive. There are generations of the same family hanging out together under the trees at pop up ‘campsites’ complete with rugs, chairs and small tents. I joined in a round of ring a rosey with a Nanna and her darlings as I happened to be passing by, and they welcomed me with broad smiles, opening up their little circle and slipping tiny hands into mine. Such warmth permeates this festival space which occupies the lush ADELAIDE BOTANIC PARK. You might chat with the folks in the queue while waiting for your meal or sitting next to you on the grass during a choir performance. I met a lovely woman from Alice Springs who got me so excited about the DESERT SONG FESTIVAL I’m seriously hoping to go later this year. I always come home feeling absolutely exhilarated.
The WOMADelaide experience opens minds and doors, bringing awareness and breadth of musical experience and knowledge.
And yes, next year we do it all again. Bring it on.
