Written by Ros Jason
Photography by Mark Moray
Opening night set the bar for this years spectacular WOMADelaide World Music Festival at BOTANIC PARK over the LABOUR DAY WEEKEND, with a super charged lineup of talent including BON IVER, CIMAFUNK, BILLY BRAGG, BANGARRA DANCE COMPANY and AURORA.
Following a respectful welcome to country, THE GARIFUNA COLLECTIVE warmed up the crowd, their percussion infused exuberant set highlighting the tropical rhythms which evolve from the mixed ethnicity of the descendants of Caribbean natives and enslaved Africans.
Norway’s alt-pop icon AURORA drew a massive crowd of adoring fans, having amassed more than 20 million monthly listeners on Spotify and a million plus global album sales since 2015, her lilting ethereal voice at times soaring, then hushed in whispers.
Her impish, whimsical stage presence and chatty banter thoroughly delighted, but it was Aurora’s startling vocal range that grabbed my attention; effortlessly skipping octaves from the highest register plunging suddenly to a solid depth.
Afterwards, the queue of AURORA devotees awaiting a meet and greet and autograph at the merchandise tent snaked through the park…the longest I’ve ever seen.
BILLY BRAGG conducted his set with many sing-along opportunities having dedicated himself for decades through his protest songs, to the struggle for equality and accountability.
His punchy lyrics and folk punk rock musical style continue to resonate, with so many around me singing the words and raising fists in the air in solidarity.
BRAGG implored us to be inspired by change, to ‘do better than the colonialists who took the land and made it theirs after 65,000 years of indigenous ownership and caretaking..’
I was so happy and grateful to have spent some time with BILLY BRAGG, to feel nourished by his mindset and aspirations and his history of inviting change amongst his fellow humans.
BANGARRA DANCE THEATRE performed TERRAIN, a stunning exploration of Australia’s largest salt lake, Kati Thanda (Lake Eyre) highlighting the ancestral ties that bind Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people to Country.
These exceptionally gifted artists illuminated the stage, enhanced by striking costumes and evocative lighting and music.
Wisconsin’s indie folk inspired Grammy award winning BON IVER closed opening night with their gang of thousands singing along with the lyrics.
Lead singer Justin Vernon’s tremulous signature falsetto stayed true to form hitting every note in their dreamy set which covered an extensive 15 year career.
GRACE CUMMINGS’ passionate delivery and deep vocal range immediately captivated. Was it Janis Joplin she reminded me of? Certainly the powerhouse voice but without the raspy huskiness, this gifted folk-rock songwriter and guitarist smashed her set and left us wanting more. Listing her influences as luminaries such as Joni Mitchell, Bob Dylan, Brett Whiteley and Van Gogh, I can’t wait to see what is next for this talented artist.
SHOPPING OPPORTUNITIES are always fun to explore and a book shop with secondhand and new volumes was a welcome addition.
Handmade jewelry pieces, signed photographic works, cashmere rugs and hand printed linen tea towels tempted.
Candles and Tibetan singing bowls, handwoven baskets, Morrocan handicrafts, hats of every shape and size, drums and musical instruments, emerging fashion designers presenting their original pieces; so much to browse through in between gigs.
The MERCHANDISE TENT sells the artists CDs, vinyl records and T-shirts and other souvenirs including tote bags, hats etc.
Many of the artists come to the merch tent to sign their albums and there is a chalkboard with times available so that you can meet your faves.
The abundance of FOOD stalls and opportunities to try WORLD FLAVOURS is always a festival highlight including; vegan gluten-free donuts, falafel, Dutch poffertjes, Indian, Vietnamese and Mexican cuisine, fresh coffee and sugarcane juice as well as gelati and crepes.
Also available were Greek Loukomades, cheese wheel pasta, Cuban delicacies, Moorish delights, West African dishes, mushroom specialities and vegan meals, chocolate brownies, and more.
My standout would have to be tasty grilled Filipino chicken, rice and coleslaw plus yummy spring rolls.
More tables and chairs near the food trucks created a much-needed seated respite and opportunity to meet up with mates and fellow festival goers.
Always a friendly festival, welcoming of all ages and abilities, it’s great to chat and meet people, and it must be said the weather was absolutely perfect with clear blue skies and temperatures in the mid twenties throughout the long weekend.
I happened upon a small birthday party, a beautiful lady celebrating her 70th birthday at her favorite place, WOMADelaide, and her husband offered me a piece of cake as I stopped by to wish her a happy birthday.
Just so much loveliness all around.
And wow there was certainly a baby boom this year.
So many babies!
In swaddling, in pushers, in arms.
Many young families congregating in groups on picnic rugs under the trees or visiting the KIDZONE with all the child and family centered activities happening there including insect investigators, silent disco, walking tours, the Adelaide library book nook with story time, climbing trees, nature village and more.
How do I describe GRATTE CIEL’S performance PLACE DES ANGES?
Having seen it on their last visit to WOMAD in 2018, I was stoked to be able to witness this spectacular aerial ballet again.
Mischievous angelic characters in dazzling costume and intricate makeup glide through the air on high trapeze wires strung through the tallest trees of the Botanic Park.
Dramatic music pulses, millions of feathers flutter to the grass at your feet as you stand entranced, childlike, staring up at the sky in wonder at this feast for the senses.
On closing night the whole company joined the crowd amongst the feathers and we boogied down into the night, forming a conga line and partying together until they eventually jumped up on stage for a finale.
It was such a blast to share a personal moment of pure joy with this super talented French troupe, a memory I will long cherish.
TASTE THE WORLD tent invites artists performing at the festival to prepare a meal from their home country with perhaps a tune or two in the kitchen, as I was fortunate to experience with SMALL ISLAND BIG SONG as they prepared a favorite seafood recipe.
One of the artists commented that she herself at ‘only 28’ has experienced climate change within her lifetime in Mauritius, witnessing the beach shrinking before her eyes.
We were all invited up to do a hip swinging dance with the artists, their gorgeous dancer leading the way as they sang and played guitar.
At the end of the session you were able to take away the recipe that has been used and sample the dish.
One of the things I love about WOMAD, a unique element in this plentiful festival menu.
There are also yoga sessions to join and artist-led WORKSHOPS provide the opportunity for a deeper experience, with RICHARD J FRANKLAND, SMALL ISLAND BIG SONG or GOSTI amongst others.
KU ARTS provided aboriginal arts and crafts workshops in weaving, gum nut artistry, wood and soap carving, language and more, sharing the richness of aboriginal culture with festival goers.
FLORENCE AND THE MACHINE’S audience screamed wildly as they rolled out their hits. Having sold 17 million albums, the multi award winning ensemble fronted by the enigmatic Florence Welch, her distinctive voice in full flight, thrilled her fans at one point by leaving the stage and jumping into the audience.
With striking background light show this bold set packed such an enormous crowd that it was actually impossible to get close.
There was indeed some talk about the size of crowds at this year’s festival with long queues for the food, loos and massive audiences at all headline gigs.
FANTASTIC NEGRITO was well.. fantastic.
Highlighting his latest release ‘White Jesus Black Problems’, this Grammy award winning singer-songwriter musician activist ‘grapples with racism, capitalism and the very meaning of freedom itself’.
Negrito’s set flowed from gritty rock and roll and R&B grooves to funk energy, holding the audience under his spell.
The headline acts draw the huge crowds that has to be said and this year they were more enormous than ever.
But sometimes the special WOMAD moments are at the smaller stages where we can stand a few feet away from the artists and feel a sense of connection, being present with the people around you.
Such was the performance of TARABEAT x MzRizk.
As I arrived three little girls in the front row were having a belly dancing lesson with the lithe graceful dancer on stage, many audience members having a go as well.
I joined in, hips swaying, hands were twirling and everyone had the best fun with this lively bunch featuring percussive drumming and soulful vocals as we all enjoyed this collaboration of classic and contemporary Arabic music which celebrates the rich history and traditions of the Middle East and North Africa.
Likewise late at night we happened upon a cool performance by DEM MOB, a group of APY lands youth bringing their message to the world about their struggles, stories, culture and land with their punchy lyrics and deadly rap groove.
These talented role models and natural leaders are the first to perform and record in the ancient Pitjantjatjara language.
The RIPPLE EFFECT BAND from Arnhem Land are paving the way for their community, being the first all female musicians to form a band featuring harmonies in five aboriginal languages.
Many acts at this impressive festival bring their message with them from their place of origin.
Heartbreakingly, BALAKLAVA BLUES speak to us in real time about the impacts of war, loss, rights to democratic freedom and the trauma of displacement.
Flashing English subtitles up on the screen behind them as they perform their intense set, the audience was taken on a journey into the hearts and minds of contemporary Ukrainians as they suffer the prolonged adversity of war.
Nearby the local South Australian Ukrainian community had established a café, KOBZA, and all proceeds from sales of their homemade Ukrainian dishes were in aid of the war efforts.
We were happy to oblige and enjoyed delicious meatballs with buckwheat, cheese and potato dumplings with sour cream, and delicious meat pierogi.
Fancy getting yourself all tied up in a stringy mess?
Such is the experience of French/ South Korean installation
GALMAE, c’est pas la, c’est par la/ it’s not that way it’s this way.
Attendees are invited to unravel a tangled labyrinth of strings..’transforming a crowd of spectators into a problem solving collective..’
Lucky participants were given a ball of string, untangling and unhooking it from various poles, high and low across the performance space, and following it through to its end point, all the while rolling in the string that has been released from the tangle.
I completed it with my husband and we loved the challenge, having to step up and over or under other peoples strings and navigate our way around other participants in this unique and engaging installation.
Once this has been completed the balls of string are burned together in a bonfire as we all watched on.
What a treat to see the USA’S famous KRONOS QUARTET celebrating its 50th anniversary at WOMADelaide.
‘Combining a spirit of fearless exploration with a commitment to continually reimagining the string quartet experience..’, their startling rendition of Jimi Hendrix, amongst other contemporary and classical pieces, was most unexpected.
They were joined on stage by an outstanding Iranian singer, her haunting voice transporting us as she spoke of the mistreatment of women in her country.
So many impressive acts to choose from including ASANTI DANCE THEATRE’S cheeky acrobatic West African music and dance, France’s SAN SALVADOR who combine hypnotic vocal harmonies and poetry with pulsating drums and percussion, Zambia’s fiery SAMPA THE GREAT, Germany’s explosive techno marching band MEUTE and Colombia’s ‘magical sound collision’ ONDOTROPICA whose tropical jazz salsa Afrobeat had everyone up and dancing.
Also in the lineup, KOREA’S folk costume clad ADG7 who’s soaring vocals and positive vibes got their audience pumped, as well as THE PROCLAIMERS, rounding out their fun set with iconic hit ‘I’m gonna be 500 miles’, the audience stomping along in glorious festival chorus.
Up close and personal with Australia’s LACHY DOLEY GROUP completely blew me away, and by the sounds of it everyone around me in the crowd was likewise enthralled, exclaiming ‘that was epic! brilliant’ in response to this celebrated blues soul rock organ player and his equally accomplished ensemble.
This wildly talented ‘Jimi Hendrix of the Hammond organ’ pounds out the most unbelievable sounds on electric keyboard, it’s hard to believe he’s not smashing it on electric guitar.
Stand out for me at this festival, in fact stand out all together; I’ve never seen anything like this and will long remember that buzz, the idiosyncratic sound, the awe of the crowd.
The PLANET TALKS sessions bring scientists, activists, thinkers and commentators to the stage to open conversations about what matters in today’s world and issues pertaining to humanity and the planet.
Always well attended by festival goers, this year saw Patricia Karvelas and Fran Kelly providing political analysis in ‘THE PARTY ROOM’. Sessions discussing the idea that seaweed can save the world, focus on the natural rights of nature, and a conversation about the race to net zero were included amongst others.
CLOSING NIGHT was a knockout with Grammy winning ‘80s band SOUL ll SOUL bringing their feel good dance and club music vibe emanating from the London warehouse scene.
I remember grooving to them back in the day and I was pumped to see them in person, likewise many others around me in the crowd as we vibed together to long remembered dance beats.
YOUSSOU N’DOUR of Senegal is one of the most celebrated African musicians of all time. Throughout his 5O year career he has collaborated using the gift of his extraordinary vocal range, with Peter Gabriel, Paul Simon, Bruce Springsteen and more.
His unique sound defines the essence of West African Groove, a melding of traditional Senegalese vocals and percussion with jazz soul funk and pop elements.
What a mellow cruisey space he and his super band created, the crowd transfixed by their hypnotic energy.
A splendid wind up to a phenomenal festival.
